Lovely Lisboa – 48 Hours in the Portuguese Capital

Islanders seeking sunsets over the Atlantic—just as lovely as our cherished sunrises on East Beach—should hop a jet to Lisbon. Often called the San Francisco of Europe, Lisboa is experiencing a cultural Renaissance. Enlightened travelers flock to the Portuguese capital once overlooked for posh Euro players such as London and Paris. Lisboans of all ages gather to read, play, and stroll in hilltop jardims (parks), overlooking vistas of the same ocean we cherish here at home—just from a different perspective. 

The city’s unpretentious vibe is a big draw for those who want to enjoy seafood pulled fresh from the ocean daily or explore 15th century cathedrals, contemporary art galleries, and shops filled with artisanal wares. Budget-conscious travelers can also find great deals on food and lodging. 

Sit down at a bar and dive into the best olives on the planet. Dip bread in bowls of shrimp sauteed with olive oil and garlic. You can literally smell garlic on city streets between breakfast and lunch. Enjoy a glass of Vinho Verde or cup of strong café. If you haven’t been to Lisbon, move it up on your list. Stay longer than 48-hours! I was travelling with our daughter Hunter and she rolls, but here’s a quick primer of must-dos and sees to jumpstart your journey.

GETTING THERE

TAP Portugal, American Airlines, and Delta offer direct flights to Lisbon from Boston, New York, and Philly. I flew from Savannah to Philly and had a bit of a wait. It’s a nice long trans-Atlantic flight so enjoy the shut eye before landing and hitting the hills for sightseeing. (With Hunter, there is zero downtime between touchdown and an extremely advanced Portuguese Pilates class on a reformer…)

The Lisbon airport can be a bit crazy, but simply follow the lines through passport control. Once out, either Uber or grab a cab. Note: be sure to confirm that the cabbie takes credit cards or Apple Pay, or you might be scrambling for dollars at your destination, like I did. (Luckily, I had $40 in cash, rare these days! Hunter was skeptical and said I should have inquired before hopping in.) The ride takes about 35 minutes. Traffic is legendary in the capital city—think Mexico City meets Boston. Lots of passionate honking. This is a city on-the-go and on-the-rise.

STAY

Hotel das Amoreiras: Charming boutique European hotel overlooking the lush Jardim das Amoreiras (mulberry tree), created by Pedro Oliveira and Alicia Valero. Step inside to inviting design and detail with a bar serving craft cocktails and coffees. Wander out to the courtyard to sip and admire. Or leaf through inspiring coffee table books on raffia side tables and admire floppy bouquets of fresh flowers. Hotel das Amoreiras, Praça das Amoreiras 34, Lisboa, PT 1250-020, +351 211 633 710, hoteldasamoreiras.com.

Santa Clara 1728: Be prepared to be speechless, literally, upon entering the “Silent Living” Hotel. Located in the historic Alfama neighborhood, the hotel’s welcome card reads, “Calm, carved in stone.” Marvel at the neutral stone and minimalist decór with an exquisite dining room off the entrance and open kitchen. Guestrooms offer marble tubs, white tiles, and French doors, opening to expansive views of the Church of Santa Engrácia, now known as the National Pantheon. On Tuesday and Saturdays, enjoy the flea market steps outside the hotel door. Santa Clara 1728, Campo de Santa Clara, 128, Lisboa, PT 1100-473, +351 964 362 816, silentliving.pt/houses/santa-clara-1728.

EAT & DRINK

Lisbon offers vibey coffee shops, bars, and restaurants on every corner. For mid-morning coffee, after a European breakfast at your hotel, head up the hill to the Sao Bento neighborhood and the pequeno Albi Lisboa. Sit at the bar and stay all day for wine, as this charming spot turns into a wine bar in the afternoon. Lots of swells gather here from all over the globe. You’ll hear English (as in real British), Danish, French, and of course, Portuguese. Albi Lisboa, Rua da Quintinha 2, Lisboa, PT 1200-360.

For dinner, book a rez at Salón de Lisboa or roll the dice with a walk-in, like we did, for a seat at the bar. Everything on the menu is delish. (Perhaps my favorite meal on our 10-day Mother-Daughter whirl around Portugal and Spain.) Awesome pairings with biodynamic wines. We started with a glass of orange and went to a light red from the Douro section of Portugal. A little small-world Southerner story: our waitress was from Charleston, attended College of Charleston, lives in Lisbon and loves it! (Sorry, Mom & Dad, she might not be coming home.) Salón de Lisboa, R. Cais do Tojo 28, Lisboa, PT 1200-649, +351.21.390.0215, salondelisboa.com. 

SHOPPING & MUSEUMS

Pack an extra bag in your suitcase for shopping and make your first stop A Vida Portugesa Lisboa, a lifestyle store with Portuguese products ranging from perfumes and bath soaps to kitchenware, linens, textiles, a “haberdashery,” and shelves packed with colorful sardine tins. The owner focuses entirely on Portuguese products. I bought my mom the most beautiful box of tiny individual guest soap in an array of soft colors. The packaging alone is dreamy.  A must-stop! There are four locations in the city. We went to twp—couldn’t get enough. A Vida Portugesa Lisboa, Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 23, Lisboa, PT 1100-285, avidaportuguesa.com.

Next wander into the Museu de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas with a collection of decorative art that spans from the 15th to the 19th century. Located in the 17th Century Azurara Palace, at Largo Portas do Sol 2, the collection contains everything from carriages to gilded mirrors (lots and lots of gilding), to rugs and very tiny beds for the very tiny royalty of the day. Most impressive are the chandeliers! Museu de Artes Decorativas Portuesas, Largo Portas do Sol 2, Lisboa, PT 1100-411.

Jump a couple of centuries and head to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, housing one of the world’s most impressive private art collections. Collector Calouste Gulbenkian, a Portuguese-Armenian oil magnate, has assembled a vast collection of artists from Rembrandt to Renoir to current contemporary artists. The grounds are lovely so be sure to take a stroll around. Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Avenida de Berna 45A, Lisboa, PT 1067-001, gulbenkian.pt.